The Church of Saint Thecla—an underground shrine dedicated to the first Christian martyr of Cilicia
Four kilometers south of Silifke, on the hill of Meryemlik (“belonging to the Virgin Mary”), lies one of the most unusual early Christian pilgrimage sites in the Mediterranean. According to legend, Saint Thecla—the first female martyr of the Christian Church and a disciple of the Apostle Paul—spent the last years of her life here in a cave and was buried here. The Church of Aya Tekla (Aya Tekla Kilisesi) is not merely ruins, but a site that has been visited by pilgrims since the 4th century: the famous traveler Egeria came here in 384, and Gregory of Nazianzus prayed here. The Church of Aya Tekla gave its name to an entire complex of structures: an underground cave church, a grand basilica, a domed church, baths, and cisterns—all of which sprang up around the single grotto where, according to legend, the saint disappeared.
History and Origin of the Church of Aya Thekla
Thecla (Θέκλα) is a character in the “Acts of Paul and Thecla” (Acta Pauli et Theclae), an apocryphal text from the 2nd century. According to tradition, she was a young woman from Iconium (now Konya) who heard the Apostle Paul’s sermon and became his follower. Having refused the marriage arranged for her by her family, Thecla endured several attempts at execution—she was thrown into the fire and thrown to wild beasts, but she miraculously survived. After her wanderings, Thecla settled in the vicinity of Seleucia (Silifke) and spent her final years there in a cave on a hill. According to the Turkish Wikipedia, when she was attacked once again, the earth opened up and swallowed her: she literally “disappeared into the ground.”
Until 312, the cave served as a secret place of worship for Christians persecuted by the Roman authorities. After the Edict of Milan in 313, which legalized Christianity, the cult of Thecla flourished openly. In 374, Gregory of Nazianzus (Gregorius Nazianzenus) visited this site. In 384, Egeria, a pilgrim who left a detailed account of her journey (“Itinerarium Egeriae”), came here. She recorded that numerous monastic cells for men and women were located around Thecla’s martyrion, and that the martyrion itself was situated inside a walled church.
In 460–470, by decree of Zeno Isaurian (reigned 474–491), the Great Basilica of Thecla—a three-nave structure and the largest in Cilicia at the time—was erected on the hilltop. Some of the complex’s other structures—a domed church, baths, and cisterns—are also attributed to Zeno or his era. In 1903, the German architectural historian Josef Stschigowski wrote the now-famous phrase: “Meriamlik muss ausgegraben werden” (“Meriamlik must be excavated”). This phrase is still cited in academic literature today. German researchers Ernst Herzfeld and Samuel Guyer conducted a three-week partial excavation, which made it possible to reconstruct the plans of the main buildings. Today, architectural historian Metin Akhunbay is conducting surface surveys.
Architecture and What to See
The Meryemlik complex includes several separate structures scattered across the hillside. All of them are connected in one way or another to the cult of Saint Thecla.
Underground Cave Church (Yeraltı Kilisesi)
This is the main attraction for visitors. The cave, which according to legend served as Thecla’s final refuge and tomb, was converted into a church at some point in early Christian history. Today it is equipped with electric lighting and a staircase leading down. Fragments of stone walls and the vault have been preserved inside. In the cave and to the north of it, ancient cisterns have partially survived—researchers believe they supplied pilgrims with healing water.
The Great Basilica of Thecla
At the top of the hill stand the ruins of a 5th-century three-nave basilica—the largest church in Cilicia of its time. Only part of the apse remains of the entire building—the eastern wall, its end pointing skyward. It is this fragment that is usually photographed against the backdrop of the blue Mediterranean horizon. You can get a sense of the basilica’s original scale by walking around the perimeter of the foundation: the building was enormous.
The “Dome Church”
A separate point of contention within the complex is the so-called “domed church.” According to modern research, it did not have a dome: presumably, the nave was covered by a conical wooden canopy for structural reasons. The building is oriented around an elliptical atrium; from the atrium, a tribelon (three-arched gate) leads into the interior. In the eastern part of the structure, where the terrain slopes downward, cellars with vaulted ceilings are located beneath the apse and pastophoria.
The North Church
The first church a traveler coming from Silifke sees is the North Church. Built in 460–470, it is a three-aisled structure, yet little studied: there is almost no information about it in the sources.
Cisterns and Baths
Traces of up to ten cisterns have been identified in various parts of the complex. Some of them are built of brick—a material atypical for Cilicia, indicating the unique building traditions of this late-antique pilgrimage center. According to researchers, these cisterns stored “healing” water for pilgrims. The bathhouse, still partially buried underground, is located between the cisterns and the “domed” church—evidently, pilgrims performed ritual ablutions here before visiting the cave.
Interesting Facts and Legends
- Egeria—a 4th-century pilgrim whose “Pilgrimage Diary” is considered one of the most important documents of early Christian geography—visited Thekla in 384. Her description of the monastic cells and the martyrion is the only contemporary account of the complex’s appearance during that era.
- According to legend, during the last attempt on Thecla’s life, the earth literally split open and swallowed her—which is why the cave is considered both her refuge and her tomb at the same time. This motif of “disappearing into the earth” is characteristic of the hagiography of early Christian martyrs.
- In 1903, Josef Stszigowski wrote: “Meriamlik muss ausgegraben werden” (“Meriamlik must be excavated”). More than 120 years later, systematic excavations have still not been carried out—Meriamlik Hill continues to await its moment.
- The name of the hill, “Meryemlik”—“belonging to the Virgin Mary”—apparently emerged as early as the Christian era and demonstrates how the cult of Thecla merged with the later veneration of the Virgin Mary: two female figures of the early church came together in a single place name.
- The Basilica of Zeno was not merely a church but also a political gesture: Zeno Isaurian hailed from Isauria—a mountainous region of Cilicia near Meryemlik. By building the region’s largest church on the site of Thecla’s cult, he simultaneously glorified his homeland and demonstrated imperial piety.
How to get there
The Church of Aya Tekla is located 4 km south of Silifke in the province of Mersin. Coordinates: 36°21′47″ N, 33°55′51″ E. From Highway D400 (Mersin–Silifke), turn off and follow the paved road for 1 km; there is also a road from Silifke via Highway D715.
The nearest airport is Adana Şakirpaşa (ADA), about 120 km to the east. From Adana to Silifke, take a bus (about 1.5–2 hours); from Mersin to Silifke, the bus ride takes about 1 hour. From Silifke to the complex, it is more convenient to take a taxi (about 5–7 minutes). By car, take the D400 toward Silifke, then follow the signs for “Aya Tekla.” The complex is managed by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism; there is an admission fee.
Tips for travelers
Plan to spend 2–3 hours at the complex: the cave church, the basilica ruins, and a walk up the hill take time. Bring a flashlight—there is electric lighting in the cave, but it is difficult to see the lower niches without an additional light source. Wear shoes with non-slip soles: the descent into the cave is via stairs, and the stone paths on the hill are slippery when wet.
The best time to visit is spring (April–May) and fall (October–November). It gets hot in the open ruins during the summer; however, it’s always cool inside the cave—bring a light jacket. Come in the morning: there aren’t crowds at Aya Tekla, but the early hours are always quieter and the light is better for photos.
Combine your visit with other attractions in Silifke and the surrounding area: Silifke Castle (Silifke Kalesi), the Silifke Museum with its ancient artifacts, Tashuj with its Amphora Museum, and the route to Cyprus. For those interested in early Christianity, a visit to Ayat Tekla can be combined with a visit to the Basilica of Saint Tekla in Tarsus and the Adana Catacombs—as part of a single itinerary following in the footsteps of the Apostle Paul. Remember: The Church of Aya Tekla is one of the oldest pilgrimage centers of the Christian world in Turkey, and even if you are not a believer, the atmosphere of this place compels you to slow down and listen to the voice of twenty centuries.