Side: The Ancient City and Temple of Apollo — A Guide to Antalya

Side AttractionsSide: The Ancient City and Temple of Apollo — A Guide to Antalya

Side: An Ancient Seaside City with the Temple of Apollo

Side is a remarkable ancient city on a small Mediterranean peninsula, where ancient ruins stand side by side with modern restaurants and shops. This archaeological site in the province of Antalya offers a combination rarely found in Turkey: a stroll through Roman streets, swimming on white-sand beaches, and a sunset over the Temple of Apollo—one of the most photographed views in Pamphylia. Ancient Side attracts travelers year-round and is rightfully included on the list of must-visit places on the Turkish Riviera.

Unlike many other ruins, where you need to buy a ticket and follow a museum route, the old town of Side is open and free: you simply stroll through it as you would any ordinary neighborhood. Tickets are only required for the ancient theater and the local museum.

History and Origin

According to one hypothesis, the city’s name translates from the ancient Anatolian language as “pomegranate”—a fruit that still symbolizes Side today. The city was founded by Greek colonists from Aeolian Cima around the 7th century BCE, but within a few generations, the new residents had forgotten Greek and began speaking the local “Sidean” dialect—one of the enigmatic languages of ancient Anatolia. It is precisely this moment of linguistic assimilation that still sparks debate among researchers: exactly how did the Greek colonists lose their own language in favor of the local dialect? Some suggest intermarriage, others—active integration into the regional trade network.

In the 4th century BCE, Side surrendered without a fight to Alexander the Great. After the general’s death, the city fell under the control of the Ptolemies, then the Seleucids, and in 190 BCE, a naval battle took place off its shores in which the Rhodian fleet, under the command of Eudamus, routed the Seleucid forces led by the legendary Carthaginian Hannibal Barca.

This battle was of immense significance for the entire Mediterranean—it cemented Rome’s control over the eastern sea lanes and effectively ended Hannibal’s career as a naval commander. Side found itself an unwitting witness to one of the turning points of ancient history.

In the 2nd–3rd centuries CE, having become part of the Roman Empire, Side experienced its golden age. The city grew wealthy through trade in olive oil, wine, and—unfortunately—people: Side was one of the largest slave markets in the eastern Mediterranean. At its peak, the population exceeded 60,000 people. In the 4th–5th centuries, following Christianization, the city became the seat of a metropolitan bishop. Arab raids in the 7th century, earthquakes, and the gradual silting up of the harbor led to its decline, and by the 10th century, Side was practically abandoned. It found new life only in the 19th century, when Muslim Turks from Crete moved here, having fled the island following the Greek-Turkish population exchange. It is their descendants who make up the current population of the old town, and it is thanks to them that Side does not look like a sterile museum—it is a living village with fishermen, artisans, and cafes where elderly people speaking a mixture of Turkish and Cretan Greek might be sitting at the next table. This rare blend of history and modern life makes Side unique among Turkey’s ancient sites.

Architecture and What to See

Ancient Side is located on a tiny peninsula about 800 meters long and 350 meters wide. You can walk around all the key monuments in 2–3 hours. What makes the town unique is that the ancient ruins here aren’t separated into a separate ticketed area—they’re literally intertwined with modern buildings. You can step into a shop whose windows are Roman columns, or sit in a café built around a fragment of an aqueduct. It is precisely this “living archaeology” that sets Side apart from other ancient cities in Turkey.

Temple of Apollo

Side’s main attraction is the 2nd-century AD Temple of Apollo. Its five white marble Corinthian columns, restored in the 1980s, rise directly on the seashore. The temple looks particularly striking at sunset, when the stone is bathed in shades of pink and gold. Nearby stood the Temple of Athena, of which only the foundation remains. Admission is free, and the site is open 24 hours a day. In antiquity, these two temples, standing side by side on the sacred precinct (themenos) by the sea, formed a majestic ensemble that sailors saw immediately upon approaching the harbor—as a symbol of the city’s protection and prosperity. Today, this very view has become one of the most recognizable images of the Turkish Mediterranean.

Ancient Theater

The Side Theater is one of the largest in Asia Minor, with a capacity of 15,000–17,000 spectators. Unlike the theater in Aspendos, the cavea here was not built into a slope but rested on massive arched substructures, as the terrain is flat. During the Roman period, the theater was also used for gladiatorial combat. In late antiquity, it was converted into an open-air Christian basilica.

The Agora and the Slave Market

Opposite the theater lies the agora—the central marketplace with the circular Temple of Tyche (Fortuna). It is here, according to archaeologists, that the infamous slave market took place. Nearby are public toilets with preserved marble seats, one of the finest examples of Roman domestic architecture.

City Walls and Towers

Side was surrounded by a massive fortress wall with eight towers, built in the 3rd century CE when the city began to face threats from Gothic naval raids. Fragments of the walls have survived along the perimeter of the peninsula, and on the eastern side, you can see a well-preserved square tower with loopholes. The walls offer a magnificent view of the sea and the entire old town, and at night they are spectacularly illuminated.

City Gates and Colonnaded Street

The main entrance to the ancient city leads through a two-story city gate from the 2nd century, beyond which the famous colonnaded street begins. Shops and porticoes lined both sides, and in the center stood an aqueduct that brought water from springs 30 kilometers from the city.

Byzantine Basilica and Museum

Behind the thermal baths (Byzantine era) lies the Side Archaeological Museum—one of the best in Turkey. It houses an excellent collection of Roman sculptures, sarcophagi, and mosaics, including the famous “Three Graces” and sculptures of Hermes and Nike. The museum is housed in the building of the former Roman baths, which makes the visit even more atmospheric.

Aqueduct and Monumental Fountain

At the entrance to the old city, next to the city gates, stand the impressive remains of a monumental nymphaeum fountain from the 2nd century CE. It was supplied with water via an aqueduct about 30 kilometers long, which began in the Taurus Mountains. From the surviving fragments, one can reconstruct a three-tiered structure with niches for statues and stone dolphins spouting water. This is where the ceremonial entrance to ancient Side began.

Eastern Necropolis

Beyond the walls of the old city, along the road leading east, a Roman necropolis has been preserved, featuring dozens of sarcophagi and family mausoleums. Many of them are decorated with reliefs depicting mythological scenes—from Dionysus to the Amazons. This is a relatively off-the-beaten-path part of Side that most tourists skip, but it offers a completely different perspective on the size and wealth of the ancient city.

Interesting Facts and Legends

  • Pomegranates—one of the oldest urban symbols of the Mediterranean—were often depicted on Side’s coins.
  • A unique local alphabet (“Sidean”) was discovered in the city, only partially deciphered—a rare example of ancient Anatolian writing.
  • According to legend, Hannibal committed suicide in Side, unwilling to surrender to the Romans, but it is only known for certain that he visited here before his final flight to Bithynia.
  • In the evening, the colonnaded street is illuminated by spotlights, creating the feeling of a theatrical set.
  • At night, street musicians often gather around the Temple of Apollo, turning a stroll into an impromptu concert.
  • In the 3rd century CE, Side was ravaged by the Goths, who plundered temples and homes. The city never fully recovered from this invasion, although it retained its status as a diocese during the Byzantine period.
  • One of the mosaics from the Side Museum depicts the philosopher Anacharsis—a Scythian whom the ancient Greeks credited with wisdom comparable to that of the Seven Sages. This is a rare example of a “barbarian” hero in Roman art.

How to get there

Side is located 75 km east of the center of Antalya, in the Manavgat district. The nearest international airport is Antalya (AYT), from which it is about a 1-hour drive by taxi.

By car: Take the D400 highway toward Manavgat/Alanya, then turn toward Side. Parking at the entrance to the old town is paid. Vehicle traffic is restricted within the peninsula.

By bus: buses depart from the Antalya bus station (otogar) to Manavgat every 30 minutes; from there, take a dolmuş to Side (about 10 minutes). Total travel time is approximately 1.5–2 hours.

Sightseeing buses run from the coastal resorts of Belek, Kumluji, Side, and Alanya, often including a combined visit to Aspendos and the Manavgat Waterfall.

Tips for travelers

Side is unique in that it combines archaeology with a beach vacation. In the morning, you can stroll through the ruins; in the afternoon, swim in the bay at East Beach; and in the evening, return to the Temple of Apollo for sunset. Bring a swimsuit, even if you originally planned only a sightseeing trip.

The best seasons are April–June and September–October. It gets very hot in the summer, and most of the ancient ruins have no shade. The town is also beautiful in the winter, but many shops and restaurants close.

To photograph the Temple of Apollo, plan to arrive 30–40 minutes before sunset: during the “golden hour,” the color of the marble changes every minute. The best vantage point is from the pier on East Beach.

Entrance to the old town is free, but you have to pay for the theater and museum. The Turkey Museum Card (Müzekart) is valid here. If you plan to visit several ancient sites, it quickly pays for itself.

Be prepared for the fact that Side has many souvenir shops and cafes geared toward tourists. Prices can be inflated, especially along the waterfront. The best restaurants are in the side streets, not on the main strip. Try the local grilled fish and pomegranate sherbet—in honor of the city’s symbol.

If you love photography, visit the Temple of Apollo twice—at sunset and before sunrise. At sunset, you’ll be joined by a crowd of tourists, while before sunrise, there will be only one or two fishermen on the pier and an empty beach. Before dawn, the light is softer, and the columns take on cool bluish tones, creating a completely different atmosphere.

Be sure to check out the famous Manavgat Waterfall, located 8 km upstream from Side. It’s one of the most popular side trips in the region. The waterfall isn’t very tall, but it’s wide and very picturesque, with a walking area and restaurants along the riverbank. You can easily spend half a day exploring both Side and the waterfall, especially if you’re traveling with kids.

On the way back, stop by the local Side Museum—it takes only 45 minutes but offers a whole new perspective on the ancient city. Here you’ll see what the statues that once stood in the temples and the agora looked like. Ancient Side is worth at least one leisurely day, and if the weather cooperates, it will become your fondest memory of Turkey.

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Frequently asked questions — Side: The Ancient City and Temple of Apollo — A Guide to Antalya Answers to frequently asked questions about Side: The Ancient City and Temple of Apollo — A Guide to Antalya. Information about the service's operation, capabilities, and use.
A walk through the old town of Side is completely free: the ruins, the Temple of Apollo, the colonnaded street, and the city walls are open 24 hours a day without an admission fee. There is an admission fee for only two sites—the ancient theater and the archaeological museum. If you plan to visit both, check to see if you have a Müzekart: the card is valid in Side and can significantly save you money.
Side is a lively town, not an open-air museum. Here, the ruins are seamlessly woven into the modern landscape: columns stand right within the walls of shops, cafes are built around fragments of the aqueduct, and ordinary residents live side by side with tourists on the streets. Ephesus and Aspendos are classic archaeological sites with fenced-off areas and museum trails. In Side, you simply walk around as if through a regular neighborhood, and this creates a completely different experience.
Müzekart is Turkey’s official museum card, offering free admission to most of the country’s state-run museums and archaeological sites. It is valid in Side: you can use it to visit the theater and the museum. If you plan to visit Aspendos, Ephesus, Pergamon, or other ancient sites during the same trip, the card will pay for itself very quickly. You can purchase it on-site at the ticket offices or online.
This is a widespread legend, but it has not been confirmed. Hannibal did indeed visit Sidon: in 190 BCE, a naval battle took place off its coast, in which the Carthaginian general commanded the Seleucid fleet—and was defeated. However, it is reliably known that after that he fled to Bithynia, where he took his own life rather than fall into Roman hands. The legend of his death in Side is a beautiful but historical exaggeration.
According to one theory, the word “Side” meant “pomegranate” in the ancient Anatolian language. This fruit became the city’s symbol as far back as antiquity—it was minted on Side’s coins. Today, pomegranate motifs are everywhere: in souvenir shops, on signs, and on café menus. Try the local pomegranate sherbet—it’s considered the city’s culinary symbol.
The current population of Old Side consists of descendants of Muslim Turks from Crete who settled here in the 19th century as a result of the Greek-Turkish population exchange. Among the older residents, elements of the Cretan Greek dialect have been preserved to this day. It is precisely this living continuity that makes Side unique: there is no sense of a sterile tourist destination here—it is a real village with fishermen, artisans, and its own way of life.
Sidetian is one of the enigmatic ancient Anatolian languages that emerged as a result of linguistic assimilation between Greek colonists and the local population. It had its own alphabet, which has been only partially deciphered. Scholars still debate the mechanism behind this assimilation: how the founding Greeks completely forgot their native language over the course of a few generations. The museum in Side houses inscriptions in Sidetic—they can be seen, but reading them without special training is impossible.
Yes, east of the old city, along the road, there is a preserved Roman necropolis with dozens of sarcophagi and family mausoleums, many of which are adorned with reliefs depicting mythological scenes—ranging from scenes featuring Dionysus to depictions of Amazons. Most tourists skip it, focusing on the center. However, it is the necropolis that gives a sense of the scale and wealth of the ancient city, whose population at its peak exceeded 60,000 people.
In winter, Side is quiet and has a very atmospheric feel: there are almost no tourists, you can take photos of the ruins in peace, and the Temple of Apollo is especially beautiful on a cloudy day. However, most restaurants, shops, and cafes close from December through February—the town falls into an off-season lull. You won’t be able to swim during this time. If your goal is photography and a peaceful exploration of history, winter is a perfectly fine time to visit; if you want a full-fledged vacation with good food and amenities, choose April–October.
Restaurants and cafes along the main waterfront and near the Temple of Apollo tend to have inflated prices aimed at tourists. The best spots are tucked away in the side streets of the old town—the food is fresher, the portions are larger, and the atmosphere is livelier. Be sure to try the grilled fish and pomegranate sorbet. Ask the locals or look for places with minimal tourist decor: that’s a reliable guide.
Side is perfect for a family trip. Kids will love exploring a “real” ancient city without strict restrictions, a white-sand beach just a short walk away, and the Manavgat Waterfall, 8 km away—a wide, spectacular waterfall with a walking path and cafes along the riverbank. You can easily combine these activities in half a day: the ruins in the morning, and the waterfall and beach in the afternoon. The main thing is to bring water and hats: in the summer, the stones get very hot and there is almost no shade.
User manual — Side: The Ancient City and Temple of Apollo — A Guide to Antalya Side: The Ancient City and Temple of Apollo — A Guide to Antalya User Guide with a description of the main functions, features, and principles of use.
The best months to visit Side are April–June and September–October. During these periods, it’s not too hot, so you can explore the ancient sites without sweltering in the heat, and the sea is already—or still—warm enough for swimming. In summer, temperatures rise above 35°C, and most of the ruins offer no shade. If photography is your main interest, plan your day so that you arrive at the Temple of Apollo 30–40 minutes before sunset—that’s when the marble changes color by the minute.
Side is located 75 km east of Antalya. By car: Take the D400 highway toward Manavgat/Alanya, then follow the signs to Side; the trip takes about an hour. By bus: from the Antalya bus station—take a bus to Manavgat (every 30 minutes), then a dolmuş to Side (about 10 minutes); total travel time is 1.5–2 hours. It’s best to leave your car in a paid parking lot at the entrance to the old town—traffic is restricted there.
Enter the old town through the two-story city gate dating from the 2nd century—the historic main entrance to Side. Immediately beyond it lies a colonnaded street, once lined on both sides with commercial porticoes. Take note of the fragments of the aqueduct running right along the street. Here you’ll also find a monumental 2nd-century AD nymphaeum fountain, which received water via a 30-kilometer aqueduct from the Taurus Mountains. This is a logical starting point for the entire route.
The Side Theater is one of the largest in Asia Minor, with a capacity of 15,000–17,000 spectators; admission requires a ticket. Opposite it lies the agora, featuring the circular Temple of Tyche and well-preserved marble public toilets. The museum is located in the building of the Roman baths and houses an outstanding collection of sculptures, sarcophagi, and mosaics, including “The Three Graces.” Allow 45 minutes to explore the museum—it’s well worth a visit and greatly deepens your understanding of what you’ve already seen outside. The Müzekart is valid at both sites.
Side’s white-sand East Beach is just a few minutes’ walk from the old town center. Be sure to bring your swimsuit, even if you originally planned only to go sightseeing—the chance to take a dip in the middle of an archaeological walk is a rare treat. The pier at East Beach is also the best spot for photographing the Temple of Apollo at sunset.
The five white marble Corinthian columns of the 2nd-century Temple of Apollo stand right on the seashore and are the main visual symbol of Side. Come 30–40 minutes before sunset: during the “golden hour,” the stone’s color shifts from white to rose-gold. The best vantage point is from the pier on East Beach. Admission is free, and it’s open 24 hours a day. In the evening, street musicians often gather here, creating a truly special atmosphere.
After sunset, choose a restaurant in the side streets of the old town—prices there are lower than on the waterfront, and the food is usually fresher. Order grilled fish and pomegranate sorbet—the culinary icons of Side. If you want to extend your day, add Manavgat Waterfall (8 km from Side): wide and picturesque, with a walking area, it’s especially suitable for families with children. It’s entirely possible to combine a visit to Side and the waterfall in a single day.