Rhodiapolis—a compact town founded by Rhodian colonists on a Lycian hill

On a hill northwest of the resort town of Kumluca in the province of Antalya, hidden among thickets of pine trees and evergreen maquis, lie the ruins of Rhodiopolis—one of Turkey’s most unusual ancient cities. It was small: in the Lycian League, Rhodiopolis held only one vote out of a possible three. But it was here that Ophramas lived—the wealthiest philanthropist of the ancient world, who donated approximately 500,000 denarii to 28 Lycian cities for reconstruction following the earthquake of the 2nd century CE. The monument in his honor bears the longest inscription in all of Lycia. And it was here, on a hillside without a single aqueduct, that the water supply problem was brilliantly solved: the city’s cisterns served as both water towers and building foundations—an engineering marvel hidden beneath tourists’ feet.

History and Origin of Rhodiopolis

The city’s name—Ῥοδιάπολις—literally means “City of Rhodes.” Ptolemy and Stephanus of Byzantium called it Rhodia; on coins and in inscriptions, it appeared as Rhodiapolis, while Pliny the Elder referred to it as Rhodiopolis, placing it “in the mountains north of Coridalla.” The prevailing theory holds that the city was founded by colonists from the island of Rhodes—one of the most powerful maritime city-states in the Aegean world. This is precisely how the name itself is explained.

During the Hellenistic period, Rodiapol was part of the Lycian League as a small polis with a single vote. Finds of coins, inscriptions, and architectural fragments from the Hellenistic era are few—the settlement was modest at the time. Its true heyday came during the Roman period. It was then that the small settlement on the hillside grew into a compact but fully-fledged city with baths, an agora, a theater, colonnades, and temples.

Ophramas, the most famous native of Rhodiopolis, lived during this same period. Following the devastating earthquake of 140–143 CE, he donated approximately 500,000 denarii toward the restoration of 28 Lycian cities and financed the construction of two temples in his hometown. A monument in his honor, erected next to the theater, bears the longest inscription in all of Lycia—a detailed list of his charitable deeds and the honors he received.

Another famous resident was Heraclitus—an orator and expert in medicine. According to inscriptions, the central cult of the city during the Hellenistic and Roman periods was the cult of Athena Polia. In late antiquity, Rhodiopolis became part of the province of Lycia; its episcopal see was suffragan to Myra. Only one bishop is known—Nicholas, who attended the Council of Constantinople in 518.

The city was discovered in 1842 by the traveler T. A. B. Spratt. In 1894, a group led by E. Krick compiled the first detailed documentation of the Ophramoas inscriptions. In 2005, the area was devastated by a severe forest fire. Systematic excavations began in 2006 under the direction of Nevzat Çevik of Akdeniz University, with the support of the Turkish Ministry of Culture.

Architecture and What to See

Rhodiopolis is one of the most compact and unconventionally planned ancient cities of Lycia. Its distinctive feature is the almost complete absence of open space: streets, buildings, and cisterns are fitted together with masterful precision, dictated by the steep slope of the hill.

The Great Baths

The Great Baths are the city’s main excavated structure. They cover an area of 1,077 square meters and date to the 2nd century CE. The baths were deliberately situated at the lower edge of the hill: it was here that water under the greatest pressure could supply the thermal baths, and the structure’s dimensions did not allow for it to be placed higher. The complex includes a caldarium, a tepidarium, and a frigidarium with windows facing south—to maximize the use of daylight and solar heat. The eastern wall has been preserved up to the level of the vault.

Monument to Opraomos

Near the theater stands a monument to the wealthiest Lycian benefactor—Opramoas. The monument’s walls are entirely covered with inscriptions: this is the longest text found in Lycia. It lists donations totaling about 500,000 denarii to 28 cities for reconstruction following the earthquake of 140–143 CE, as well as all the honors bestowed upon Ophramoas by the grateful cities and the Roman emperor.

The Agora and the Theater

The Agora of Rhodiopolis is an important monument despite the city’s small size. The two-story stoa and the statue of Ophramoas form a commercial and social center. The theater is the only structure from the Late Hellenistic period to have survived the later Roman reconstructions. In 2011, a Lycian necropolis dating to approximately 300 BCE was discovered.

Cisterns as an engineering system

A unique feature of Rhodiopolis: there was no space to build an aqueduct, so all water was stored in cisterns carved directly into the rock. These same cisterns simultaneously served as foundations and terraces for buildings—a solution that combined engineering and urban planning in a single element. It is noteworthy that the “aqueduct supports” previously identified within the city turned out to be Roman chamber tombs.

Interesting Facts and Legends

• In 2017, the restoration of a temple near the theater caused a scandal: workers with no restoration experience were employed, some stones were laid in the wrong direction, and Italian marble was used instead of local stone. This incident sparked a broad discussion about methods for restoring ancient monuments in Turkey.
• Ophramas donated money to 28 Lycian cities—and none of them was his hometown. This is an example of the Greek and Roman practice of “philanthropy”: a wealthy citizen voluntarily funded public needs, receiving honor and posthumous remembrance in return. The monument in Rhodiopolis is the best-preserved example of this system in all of Asia Minor.
• The only known bishop of Rhodiopolis bore the name Nicholas—the same as that of Lycia’s most famous native, Nicholas of Myra (Santa Claus). The coincidence of the name is no accident: Nicholas was one of the most revered names in early Byzantine Lycia.
• The city was founded by colonists from Rhodes, but, according to researchers, it minted its own silver coins—a rare privilege for a small Lycian polis with a single vote in the League.

How to get there

Rhodiopolis is located in Lycia, on a hill northwest of Kumluca in the province of Antalya. The nearest major airport is Antalya (AYT), about 90 km west by road. Buses run from Antalya to Kumludja; the trip takes about 1.5–2 hours. From Kumludja to the ruins—approximately 5–7 km along a dirt road; it’s best to get there by rental car. From Kas and Demre (Myra)—about an hour’s drive east along a scenic coastal route.

The site is not fenced off, and admission is free. It is most convenient to plan a visit in combination with Kumluca, Demre—Myra, and Hierapolis of Kastabala as a single itinerary along the Lycian coast.

Tips for travelers

The best time to visit is spring and fall: in April–May, the hillsides are covered with blooming maquis, and in October, the light is soft and golden. It gets very hot on the hill in summer; sunscreen and water are essential year-round. There are no signposts at the site—it’s best to download a GPS track in advance.

Bring binoculars: the inscriptions of Opraamos on the monument are detailed, and it’s more interesting to make out the letters up close than in photographs. Local farmers’ goats sometimes graze near the ruins—a common sight in these Lycian areas untouched by tourists. Wear sturdy shoes: the slopes are rocky and slippery after rain. It’s convenient to combine a visit to Rhodiopolis with the nearby Lycian rock tombs near Kumludja—they’re a half-hour drive away and together offer a comprehensive view of Lycian funerary culture.