Metropolis—the City of the Mother Goddess in the Ionian Valley
Forty kilometers southeast of Izmir, in the municipality of Torbalı near the village of Yeniköy, on Bademgediği Tepe hill, stand the ruins of a city that ancient authors simply called “Metropolis”—“Mother City.” Metropolis is not a bustling metropolis, but a quiet Ionian settlement where the Mother Goddess was worshipped, where fugitives from the fallen city of Arzawa took refuge during the Hittite era, and where one of the world’s two known temples of Ares stood during the Hellenistic period. The site has been under investigation since 1972, but it still holds surprises: in 2021, a marble statue of a woman was discovered, and in 2025, an agora that had stood until the 5th–6th centuries CE.
History and Origins of Metropolis
Settlement of Bademgediği Tepe began in the Neolithic period; the first inhabitants were influenced by the Trojan-coastal culture of Troy I. The city is rich in traces of all subsequent eras—from the Late Bronze Age to the Ottoman period.
In the Late Bronze Age, around the end of the 14th century BCE, this site, then known by the Hittite name Puranda, is mentioned in the “Annals of Mursilis II.” After the Hittite king Mursilis conquered the capital of Arzawa—the city of Apasas (later Ephesus), located 30 km to the southwest—the fugitives Khursanasan, Surudan, and Attarimmann took refuge in Puranda. The Arzawa prince Tapalazunauli, who had fled to the islands during the invasion, also went there. Mursilis captured Puranda, Tapalazunauli fled with his family—and this chapter in the history of Metropolis came to a close.
Remains of Mycenaean culture have been discovered on the same hill: a significant amount of local Mycenaean pottery dates to the 14th–12th centuries BCE. Particularly noteworthy is the find from Bademgediği Tepe—an image of a ship on a vessel, which is considered an important source for understanding the development of shipbuilding and naval iconography during the Bronze Age.
During the Hellenistic period, Metopolis was part of the Kingdom of Pergamon and reached its zenith. Strabo mentioned the city among the settlements of the Caistrus Plain in Lydia: on the road from Smyrna to Ephesus, 120 stadia from Ephesus and 180 from Smyrna. He also noted that the Metropolis region produced excellent wine. During the Roman period, the city was heavily “Romanized”; layers from Rome and Byzantium were superimposed upon the Hellenistic foundation. A church stands east of the city; the fortress walls from the later period connect with the Hellenistic fortifications of the acropolis.
Architecture and What to See
The theater and the marble seat with griffins
In 1995, archaeologists discovered a marble honorary seat from the Hellenistic period, decorated with griffins, in the ancient theater—one of the rarest examples of such an object. The original is kept at the Izmir Archaeological Museum; an exact replica has been installed in the theater. The theater is open to visitors: although it is not as large as the one in Ephesus, the atmosphere itself—the hill overlooking the valley, the rows of stone steps—is compelling.
Temple of Ares
Metropolis is the site of one of the two temples of Ares, the god of war, known to science. The cult of Ares was significantly less widespread than the cults of Zeus or Apollo; this is precisely why the temple here is a rarity on a global scale. Excavations have revealed its layout and the remains of the structure.
The Agora and Late Antique Layers
In 2025, an agora was uncovered on the southern slopes of the city. According to experts, it functioned until the 5th–6th centuries CE and likely fell into disuse due to an earthquake. This discovery radically refines our understanding of the duration of active urban life in Metropolis.
The 2021 Marble Statue
In June 2021, a well-preserved marble statue of a standing woman on a pedestal, approximately 1,800 years old, was found in the Torbalı district. The head and both arms were missing. Nevertheless, the quality of the torso and the drapery reveals the hand of an experienced Roman-era master; the statue became a significant find for understanding sculptural production in Ionia during the 2nd–3rd centuries CE.
Topography and Hellenistic Fortifications of the Acropolis
The visible part of the site consists primarily of a Hellenistic city with strong “Roman” modifications. The walls and towers of the acropolis are clearly visible in the terrain; later Christian fortifications partially overlap and utilize the Hellenistic foundations. A walk along the perimeter allows one to trace how each era reinterpreted the previous one.
Interesting Facts and Legends
Metropolis is a city where every excavation season brings new discoveries.
- The Hittite name of the city—Puranda—appears in the “Annals of Mursilis II,” one of the most important sources on Hittite history. This makes Metropolis one of the few Ionian cities with a reliably identified Hittite name.
- The marble honorary chair with griffins, discovered in 1995, is one of the rarest artifacts of its kind preserved in Asia Minor; the original is in the Izmir Museum.
- The Temple of Ares here is one of only two known monuments of its kind in the world. Ares was the god of war, but his cult was significantly less widespread than the cults of the Olympian patron gods of cities.
- The depiction of a ship on a Mycenaean vessel from Bademgediği Tepe is an important source for the history of Late Bronze Age shipbuilding in the Aegean region.
- The Agora, discovered in 2025, rewrites the chronology: the city continued to function actively at least until the 5th–6th centuries CE, much longer than previously thought.
How to get there
The site is located near the village of Yeniköy in the municipality of Torbalı, approximately 40 km southeast of Izmir. From Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB)—take a taxi or a rental car toward Torbalı; the journey takes about 30–35 minutes. From Izmir, buses run to Torbalı from the Üçkuyular bus station; from Torbalı to the village of Yeniköy, take a local taxi or walk about 3 km.
GPS coordinates: 38°07′N 27°19′E. The official excavation website (metropoliskazilari.com) publishes the current schedule. It’s convenient to combine this with a visit to Ephesus (about 30 km south)—both sites can be included in a single day trip from Izmir.
Tips for travelers
Metropolis is an actively excavated open-air site, not a museum park. During the summer season (May–September), archaeologists are at work here; the opportunity to observe the process firsthand is a rare experience. Outside of the season, the site may be partially closed; check in advance.
Shoes with sturdy soles are required: the terrain is uneven. Be sure to bring water and a hat—there is little shade. Admission is usually free (check on-site), but the area is fenced off, and visiting hours are regulated during the active season.
For lovers of Ionian history, Metropolis reveals an unexpected perspective: this is not the “grand” Ephesus, but a deep insight into how second-tier cities lived, those not included on tourist itineraries. Visit the Izmir Archaeological Museum to see the original ceremonial chair with griffins and other finds from Metropolis—this will complete the picture. Metropolis attracts precisely those who are curious about what lies behind the glamour of famous names.