Şirakavan — the ruins of the Armenian capital of the Bagratids in Kars

Kars AttractionsŞirakavan — the ruins of the Armenian capital of the Bagratids in Kars

Şirakavan: Ruins of the Armenian Capital of the Bagratids on the Banks of the Akhuryan

On the right bank of the Akhuryan River (Arpaçay in Turkish), a few kilometers from the modern Armenian-Turkish border, lie the ruins of Şirakavan—an ancient Armenian city that served as the capital of the Bagratid Kingdom from 890 to 929. The Turkish name for the site is Yerazgavors; it corresponds to the modern village of Çetindurak in the Akyaka district of Kars Province. Today, only the fortress foundations and fragments of the Surp Prkich (Holy Savior) Church remain of the city—but the site’s historical significance is immense: it was here in 890 that Catholicos Gevorg II crowned King Smbat I, marking the beginning of the golden age of Armenian statehood.

History

The settlement was founded in the 7th century under the name Yerazgavors; the Armenian historian Sebeos referred to it as “a village in the Shirak canton of the Ayrarat province of Greater Armenia.” In the 9th century, King Smbat I of the Bagratid dynasty transformed the settlement into a major city and, in 890, moved the kingdom’s capital here, renaming the place Şirakavan. Soon after, Smbat was crowned here by Catholicos Gevorg II—this event is recorded in Armenian chronicles as a key date in the restoration of Armenian statehood following a long period of Arab rule.

Şirakavan remained the capital until 929, when King Abbas I moved the capital to Kars (the seat of power later moved there as well, and subsequently to the more famous Ani). However, the city did not lose its significance: in the 10th–11th centuries, active urban life continued here, with craft workshops, a mint, and markets in operation.

In the 11th–12th centuries, Şirakavan had a central fortress surrounded by massive defensive walls. In 1064, the city was destroyed by the Seljuk forces of Sultan Alp Arslan—the same campaign that resulted in the capture and destruction of Ani. Later, Şirakavan was partially restored by the Armenian Zakaryan princes, but it never regained its former importance. By the early 20th century, it was merely a small village with a population of about 1,220; in 1920, the population left, and in 1954, the Surp Prkich Church was partially destroyed during Turkish military exercises. The construction of a dam flooded part of the remaining archaeological sites.

Architecture and What to See

Surp Prkich Church (Church of the Holy Savior)

The main monument of Şirakavan is the Surp Prkich Church, built in the 880s. It was a cross-domed structure with a central apse, four pillars, and a barrel vault. It was here that Smbat I was crowned in 890. Until 1954, parts of the walls and dome remained intact; following military exercises and subsequent destruction, only fragments of the foundations and lower sections of the walls remain. Old photographs by Toros Toramanyan from 1908 have survived, allowing one to imagine the original appearance.

Fortress and Defensive Walls

In the 11th–12th centuries, Şirakavan had a central fortress surrounded by thick defensive walls. Today, only stone ruins remain, allowing one to trace the contours of the fortifications. This is a system typical of Armenian military architecture: a citadel in the center, outer walls along the perimeter, and towers at key points.

Residential and Utility Buildings

Archaeological evidence indicates dense urban development typical of Armenian cities of the 9th–11th centuries: stone houses, paved streets, and a water supply system. Most of these remains are barely visible today—almost everything is flooded or buried under soil.

Context: the landscape of the border zone

The site itself is significant for its location—on the right bank of the Akhuryan River, along which the modern border between Turkey and Armenia runs. From the ruins, the opposite Armenian side is visible; on clear days, Mount Aragats and the silhouette of Echmiadzin can be seen in the distance. This creates a special atmosphere: the ruins look directly toward modern-day Armenia.

Interesting Facts

  • In 890, the coronation of Smbat I took place in Şirakavan—an event that restored the Armenian kingdom after centuries of Arab rule. This act is considered one of the key dates in Armenian history.
  • Şirakavan was the capital for only 39 years (890–929), but during that time it laid the foundation for the Bagratid period, which later gave rise to Ani—the “city of a thousand and one churches.”
  • In 1908, the Armenian historian Toros Toramanyan took a series of photographs of Surp Prkich—this is the primary visual source on the church’s architecture.
  • The city was destroyed by the same Seljuk campaign led by Alp Arslan in 1064 as the more famous Ani—the two sister cities perished almost simultaneously.
  • In 1954, Turkish military exercises destroyed the remains of Surp Prkich Church; later, the construction of a dam flooded part of the archaeological site.

How to get there

Şirakavan is located near the village of Çetindurak in the Akyaka district of Kars Province, on the right bank of the Akhuryan/Arpaçay River. It is about 35 km southeast of the city of Kars, approximately a 45-minute drive. The nearest airport is Kars Harakani (KSY), 30 km away. Coordinates: 40.7157°N, 43.7219°E.

Public transportation to Çetindurak is limited: there are only a few minibuses from Kars or Akyaka. The most convenient option is to rent a car or take a round-trip taxi from Kars; be sure to agree on a time.

Please note: the site is located in the border zone with Armenia. A permit from the military or gendarmerie may be required to visit—check with local authorities before your trip. The road to the ruins themselves is mostly unpaved.

Tips for travelers

The best time to visit is late spring, summer, and early fall. In winter, the Kars region is covered in snow and gets very cold. This is a “wild” site with no infrastructure: no signs, no fences, and no ticket office. Bring water, a snack, a warm jacket (it can get chilly on the plateau even in summer), and comfortable shoes.

Approach your visit with tact: the Armenian issue in Eastern Anatolia is sensitive, and being in the border zone requires extra caution. Avoid making loud statements in the presence of locals, and do not photograph military facilities or border infrastructure. If gendarmes appear nearby, calmly explain that you are a tourist visiting an archaeological site.

Photographing the ruins and the landscape is permitted. The best time is in the morning or closer to sunset: the slanting light highlights the texture of the stone and the open expanse of the landscape. It makes sense to combine this visit with a trip to Kars (the fortress, the Armenian Church of the Twelve Apostles, now the Kümbet Camii mosque) and to Ani—the most famous Armenian ruined city in this region, just 50 km away. Together, Ani and Şirakavan provide a comprehensive picture of the Bagratid era and its tragic conclusion in the 11th century.

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Frequently asked questions — Şirakavan — the ruins of the Armenian capital of the Bagratids in Kars Answers to frequently asked questions about Şirakavan — the ruins of the Armenian capital of the Bagratids in Kars. Information about the service's operation, capabilities, and use.
Şirakavan is the site of an ancient Armenian city that served as the capital of the Bagratid Kingdom from 890 to 929. It was here in 890 that Catholicos Gevorg II crowned King Smbat I, restoring Armenian statehood after centuries of Arab rule. This event is considered one of the key dates in Armenian history. Later, the political center moved to Kars and then to the famous Ani, but Shirakavan remains a symbol of the beginning of the Bagratid Golden Age.
All that remains of the city are fragments of the foundation of the 9th-century Surp Prkich (Holy Savior) Church, the stone ruins of the fortress and defensive walls, and the outlines of the fortifications, which reveal the layout of the citadel. Most of the residential structures are buried under soil or have been flooded since the construction of the dam. In 1954, Turkish military exercises destroyed the remaining fragments of the walls and the church’s dome. The primary visual source regarding its architecture consists of photographs taken by the Armenian historian Toros Toramanyan in 1908.
Yes, you should clarify this in advance. Şirakavan is located in a border zone with Armenia, and you may need permission from the military or the gendarmerie to access the area. Before your trip, it is recommended that you contact the local authorities in Kars or the district center of Akyaka. If you encounter gendarmes during your visit, calmly explain that you are a tourist visiting an archaeological site.
Şirakavan and Ani are two cities of the same era and the same tragedy. Şirakavan was the first capital of the Bagratids and laid the foundation for their statehood; later, the capital moved to Kars and then to Ani. In 1064, both cities were destroyed by the Seljuk forces of Sultan Alp Arslan during the same military campaign. Ani is located about 50 km from Shirakavan, and a combined visit provides a comprehensive picture of the Bagratid era and its tragic conclusion.
No. Şirakavan is an “unspoiled” site with no infrastructure whatsoever: no information signs, no fences, no ticket office, no restrooms, and no food vendors. Be sure to bring plenty of water, a snack, comfortable shoes for walking on dirt, and a warm jacket—it can get chilly on the plateau even in summer. The road to the ruins is mostly unpaved.
The ruins stand on the right bank of the Akhuryan (Arpaçay) River, along which the modern border between Turkey and Armenia runs. From the Şirakavan site, the opposite Armenian side is visible; on a clear day, Mount Aragats and the silhouette of Echmiadzin can be seen on the horizon. This creates a special atmosphere: the ruins of the ancient Armenian capital look directly toward modern-day Armenia.
This area requires extra caution and tact. Do not photograph military installations, border infrastructure, or military equipment—this is prohibited and may attract the attention of the gendarmerie. Photographing the ruins themselves and the surrounding landscape is permitted. The topic of Armenian history in Eastern Anatolia remains a sensitive one, so it is best to refrain from making loud statements on this subject in the presence of local residents.
The best time to visit is late April through early June (late spring) and September through October (early fall). During these months, the weather is mild, the scenery is picturesque, and the lighting conditions are ideal for photography. It is hot in the summer, but visits are still possible; in the winter, the Kars region is covered in snow and freezes solid, making the trip to the ruins difficult. The best light for photos is in the morning or an hour before sunset.
A leisurely tour of the ruins of Surp Prkich Church, the fortress walls, and the surrounding landscape will take about 1.5 hours. If you’re interested in history and want to explore the fortifications in detail or sit and enjoy the view of the Akhuryan River, allow 2–2.5 hours, including travel time from the nearest village.
Yes, and this is recommended. A logical itinerary: Kars (the fortress, the Church of the Twelve Apostles—now the Kümbet Camii mosque) → Şirakavan → Ani. All three sites are located within a 50-kilometer radius and span different periods of the region’s Armenian and medieval history. Ani—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—provides the clearest picture of the Bagratid Kingdom’s heyday; Şirakavan reveals its origins.
Public transportation to the village of Çetindurak is extremely limited: a few minibuses from Kars or the regional center of Akyaka run on an irregular schedule. The most convenient option is to rent a car in Kars or take a taxi with a prearranged waiting time. The nearest airport is Kars Harakani (KSY), about 30 km away. The distance from Kars itself to the ruins is approximately 35 km, about a 45-minute drive along the highway and a dirt road.
User manual — Şirakavan — the ruins of the Armenian capital of the Bagratids in Kars Şirakavan — the ruins of the Armenian capital of the Bagratids in Kars User Guide with a description of the main functions, features, and principles of use.
Before leaving Kars, contact the local gendarmerie or the Akyaka district administration to confirm whether a special permit is required to visit the border area near the Akhuryan River. Requirements are subject to change; it is best to clarify this in advance to avoid being turned back at the checkpoint.
Şirakavan is located near the village of Çetindurak, about 35 km southeast of Kars. Public transportation is irregular, so the best option is to rent a car or take a taxi from Kars with a fixed return time. If you take a taxi, make sure to arrange for the driver to wait for you at the site right away: you won’t be able to call for a car from the ruins. The last stretch of road to the ruins is unpaved but passable in a standard passenger car during dry weather.
There are no shops, cafes, or restrooms on site. Bring plenty of water (at least 1.5 liters per person), a light snack, sunscreen, and a hat. Wear shoes that are comfortable for walking on uneven ground and rocks. Even on a warm day, bring a windbreaker or jacket: it can be cool and windy on the open plateau by the river.
Start with the foundations of the Surp Prkich Church—Şirakavan’s main landmark, built in the 880s. King Smbat I was crowned here in 890. Walk around the surviving fragments of the lower sections of the walls, then proceed to the stone ruins of the fortress fortifications: by tracing their outlines, you can reconstruct the layout of the citadel and the outer walls. Take your time—these outwardly modest ruins require imagination and an understanding of their context to reveal their historical depth.
Head to the banks of the Akhuryan (Arpaçay) River, which forms the state border. On a clear day, you can see the Armenian side, Mount Aragats, and the outline of Echmiadzin from this spot. It’s a place with a unique atmosphere, where ancient history and modern geopolitics converge. Please note: photographing military and border facilities is prohibited; ruins and landscapes are permitted.
To get a complete picture of the Bagratid era, be sure to include a visit to the ruins of Ani (about 50 km from Şirakavan)—the best-preserved monument of this civilization and a UNESCO World Heritage Site—on the same day or the next. In Kars itself, explore the medieval fortress and the former Armenian Church of the Twelve Apostles (Kümbet Camii). This itinerary provides a chronologically coherent picture of the rise and fall of the Bagratid Kingdom.